Bonds need to be prepared before the appointment for the application service. Always check the colors and the amount in your order before your client arrives!
Begin by cutting the Keratin tip. For full graph trim 1/3 off the top of the bond to shorten it up slightly.
For micro graphs, cut the bond in 1/2 or 1/3. Cut the bond halfway down the center of the bond then pull it apart the rest of the way. If you cut all the way through, this will cut the hair as well.
The most crucial and important aspect of hair extension application is the stylist hand and body placement. If any of these key factors are not properly conducted, stretching or slipping of the bond can occur as well as pain and discomfort for the client and fatigue for the stylist. Remember to always have the client seated at a comfortable height level and have their head directed in a proper position for you. You should never stretch, bend or contort your body while performing a hair extension service on a client.
Before applying extensions, make sure that your partings and sections are always very clean and precise and all loose stray hairs are clipped away. Use a tail comb or SO.CAP USA clip to make sections. Stray hair attached to the bond will most often create an uncomfortable extension for the client. Remember to always use your plastic disk shield during extension integration.
Step 1. Begin by holding the extension with your thumb and forefinger of your non-dominate hand within ½" to 1" from the keratin tip. Then base your three free fingers of this hand against the client's head. Hold the strand of the client's hair tautly between thumb and forefinger of your dominant hand. Holding the extension under the client's hair, slide the hair on top of the extension between the thumb and forefinger holding the extension. Keep the keratin tip ½" inch away from the scalp. Always bond the hair extensions underneath the client's hair. By placing the extension under their hair, this will allow the hair to lie flatter.
Step 2. When softening the bonds for the first application, hold the applicator tool at a 90° angle. Press the bottom tip of tool onto the keratin bond that is under the client’s hair for approximately 5 seconds for pre-softening. Then close applicator tool firmly on bond and hair until you see the extension hair just below the application tip begin to swell and expand. This tells you the keratin has softened and spread and your heat application is complete. Always keep the applicator tool still; never slide up or down or tap open and close.
Step 3. Once heat application is complete, remove the applicator tool quickly to prevent over softening and disintegration of the keratin. Keratin is ready for molding.
To create a barrel wrap:
· Make sure you are not holding any tools in your hands; replace your applicator tool to your work belt.
· Step in closer to your client and place your dominant hand on top of their head. Hand must rest on top of the scalp while rolling the bond closed to prevent stretching of the bond.
· With the thumb and forefinger of your dominant hand, pull the sides of the keratin up, pinch them together over the top of the client's hair, and then roll the keratin between your fingers merging the sides together and sealing the seam. Always keep both of your hands braced against the client's head. If rolling is not done correctly, the bond will not close properly and the extension will not lay correctly.
· After rolling is completed and keratin has hardened, slightly re-soften the bond a second time for remolding to ensure all seams have been sealed.
· Hold the applicator tool at a 45° angle and bottom tip onto to the bond for approximately 5 seconds. Then close applicator on bond with less pressure then the first application. You do not need to heat for as much time as initial application as this will reopen the seam. Again, keep the applicator tool still; do not slide up or down or tap open and close.
· Remove the applicator tool immediately to prevent over softening, opening of the seam and disintegration of the keratin.
· Place dominant hand back on the client's head and remold the bond by rolling between your forefinger and thumb using enough pressure to ensure a tight seal.
Once completed, the bond should be no longer than the keratin's original trimmed length. If the keratin has stretched, this is an indication that the applicator tool was moved up and down and/or tapped open and close or that the stylists hands were not stationary against the clients head and pulled at the extension – most importantly the dominant hand which is holding the hair extension must be stationary. Your non dominant hand, which lies flat against the client's head should never come off their head until bonding is complete.
To create a flat bond:
Follow Steps 1, 2 and 3. Once the bond begins to spread, remove the applicator tool immediately to prevent over softening and disintegration of the keratin. Keratin is ready for molding.
· Place your index finger of your dominant hand under the bond to support it. Take the thumb of the same hand and fold the side of the keratin over the client's hair, engulfing it in the bond.
· Perform the same action for the other side of the bond with the index finger and thumb of your other hand so that the client's hair is completely covered by both sides of the keratin. During flat bond application your non dominant hand, holding the hair and extension will need to be lifted from client's head for molding of the bond, unlike with the barrel wrap where it should never be lifted until bonding is complete.
· Slightly re-soften the bond a second time, with less pressure and time than the first application, still holding the applicator tool at 90° and remove immediately.
Place thumb on top of the bond and fold the side under using your index finger. Repeat this with the other forefinger and thumb for the other side of the bond.
Apply the applicator tool a third time for a quick blast of heat and remove immediately. Then buff the bond with thumb and index as to create smoothness and a non-porous sheen, also making sure that any seams are blended and edges are soft and tight.
Make sure the end resulting bond length stays the same length as when it began.
Step 4. Once the 1/2 graft hair extensions have been integrated along the entire horseshoe guideline, the next section for application will be ½" above the horizontal section at the nape of the neck, parallel to the section that connects the two side sections of the horseshoe guideline. Depending on the desired results and style, these extensions should be full grafts. The extensions must be placed in a brick-lay pattern so that no two extensions are directly above or below one another.
Step 5. Continue taking horizontal sections ½" above the previous section, connecting the two vertical side sections of the horseshoe and placing the extensions in a brick-lay pattern. Once the horizontal sections above the ears have been connected, the next section or two will be horizontal around the head, from side to side 1/2" above the last section.