PRE-TREATMENT OF THE CLIENT’S HAIR
Products for professional use only
Hair must be properly prepared before extensions are attached. It is important to cleanse the hair of any product and/or residue. To do this, use the following products:
STEP 1 Pre-Cleansing Spray
The Pre-Cleansing spray breaks down any and all build up on the hair. Apply 10 to 20 sprays to dry or damp hair from about 12 inches away. Be sure to apply to the area where hair extensions will be applied. Allow to remain in hair for 2 minutes.
STEP 2 Clarifying Shampoo
The Clarifying Shampoo is to open the cuticle of the hair and cleanse the hair of all build up. Wet hair and apply Clarifying Shampoo. Work into a rich lather. Rinse thoroughly. Always shampoo the hair twice.
STEP 3 Contracting Spray
The Contracting Spray is designed to close the cuticle and restore the correct PH balance to the hair.
After Shampooing with STEP 2 towel blot hair and apply 6-10 spays from 12 inches away. Allow to remain in hair and comb through. Do Not Rinse Out and do not apply any conditioner.
Blow dry the hair in the direction which the hair falls naturally. Do not over brush or over direct the hair in any unnatural flow. The hair must be completely dry and allow to cool. If the client's hair is not completely dry, it will cause moisture to get into the bond, which will prevent it from sealing properly and cause it to detach later. Wash hands of oil, dirt or any other particles before you start working with the hair extensions.
It is advised to wait 72 hours and at least one shampooing before applying hair extensions if the client’s hair has been chemically treated prior to the hair extension application. Do not apply hair extensions to hair that has been treated with a Keratin treatment for at least 30 days.
SECTIONING
Begin sectioning by making a horseshoe guideline. Section vertically from the temples downwards towards the ear than hair horizontally at the side hairline and temple region, staying ½" to 1" inside the client's outer perimeter hair line and ear.
Continue section behind the ear, then vertically down to the nape, following the flow of the client's hairline staying within ½" to 1" inside the hairline. Repeat this sectioning on the other side of the client's head.
Connect the two sides by making a horizontal section ½" to 1" above the hairline at the nape of the neck.
Make sure to always stay at least ½" to 1" inside of the hairline and always check to make sure the tail of your comb is not visible through this section of the client's own hair. If it is, you will need to incorporate more hair into this section. This horseshoe guideline serves as your outer most perimeter to stay within. All the bonds along the horseshoe outer perimeter guideline should always be half grafts.
DISK PLACEMENT
After parting your section base and hair, open and slide hair into the shield. Once all the hair is in the circle of the shield, slide the shield up to the scalp. While bringing the shield to the scalp, pay special attention not to rough up the hair.
Tightly secure the disk with two clips. If the shield is not properly secured, sliding of both the shield and extension may occur. Disk placement must respect the natural growth pattern of the client's hair and the opening should always point towards 9 o’clock or 3 o’clock. Also, keep disk slightly below the base as this will keep the hair flowing in its natural downward direction.
The clear plastic disks help to keep your partings clean and make it easier to attach the extensions neatly.